Helvetia Shock & Water Protected Watches
From the mid 1920s Helvetia started to introduce shock and water protected watches that could stand up to the stresses and strains caused by vigorous activity that the, somewhat delicate, dress watches of the time could not.
Read more about Helvetia's search for the truly Shock and Waterproof watch...
Early Shock Protection and Helvetia's First 'Waterproof' Watches
Wristwatch movements are prone to damage from knocks or being dropped, the delicate ends of the balance staff are particularly vulnerable. During the 1920s wristwatches began to be manufactured with shock protection added to the balance, normally in the form of a flat spring over the balance cap jewel. Possibly the first of these was developed by Joseph Brun and patented by him in 1921 in conjunction with Charles Depollier of Jacques Depollier & Son Inc. of New York. Depollier were a watch case manufacture who specialised in waterproof watch cases which they had developed at the end of World War One.
In the mid 1920s Helvetia/General Watch Co (I’ll refer to them as Helvetia from now on for brevity) started producing watches with a cross shaped spring on the balance of the movement which looks very much like a simplified version of the system patented by Depollier.
In addition, the particular configuration of the bridges on these movements only seems to have been used by Helvetia and a very few Depollier marked watches. The movements fitted with this shock protection tend to be smaller than the 13 ligne movements Helvetia were manufacturing at this time and so are usually Fabrique d'Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF), or sometimes A Schild (AS), movements that have been adapted with the shock protection and unique bridge configuration. These watches are marked "Shock Absorber" on the dial and "Patent Shock Absorber" on the movement.
These watches were Helvetia's first foray into shock protection, though it is not always easy to identify them. As was normal at this time Helvetia or General Watch Co is not usually marked on the dial, movement or case. If there is any name present it will usually be that of the retailer. There are signs you can look for however such as the ‘3 Adjustments, dot, star, dot’ text on the ratchet wheel of the barrel to help identify these early Helvetia shock protected movements.
During this period one of the main importers of Helvetia watches into the UK was the company ‘Robert Pringle and Sons’ of London. They were an importer and wholesaler of Jewellery and other ‘fancy goods’ including watches and periodically published a catalogue of their offerings under the name ‘The Wilderness Catalogue’ named after their initial address of 21 Wilderness Row, Clerkenwell, London. Silver and gold items imported by Robert Pringle & Sons are marked with the import sponsors mark ‘A.G.R’ for Arthur George Rendell, an employee of the company. You will find many Helvetia watches from WW1 through to the 1930s marked with this sponsors mark and illustrations from the ‘The Wilderness Catalogue’, as well as from other catalogues and advertisements, are used throughout this page.
By 1927 it would appear that Helvetia decided to extend their partnership with Depollier by manufacturing a new version of the Depollier waterproof cased watch from the end of World War One. Following monetary problems in the early 1920s it seems that US watch companies were refusing to work with Depollier due to unpaid debts and so in 1926 Depollier launched a new iteration of their company ‘The Depollier Watch Corporation’ and turned to Switzerland to manufacture their watches.
Some earlier Depollier cases had used a crown that was held in place by a sort of bow that applied pressure to the crown sealing it, to some extent, against moisture dirt and dust. In 1927 Helvetia patented a version of this crown for use with the new version of Depollier's case.
From 1918 versions of the Depollier waterproof case had used a screw down crown and I am not sure why Depollier reverted to the earlier method of securing the crown for the new watches but it may have been to do with patent issues around the screw down crowns.
Very few of the 1927 Depollier/Helvetia waterproof watches appear to have survived to today. I have only ever seen three.
They are all fitted with the adapted FHF movements and shock protection of Helvetia's earlier shock protected watches, the difference is now they have Depollier cases designed to be screwed shut using a 'key' that fitted into slots on the front and rear of the case and was then turned to a make sure the cases were closed with a tight seal. They are also fitted with the patent crown and bow.
Almost all of the earlier Depollier watches made in the US were nickel, the 1927 ones are silver.
The slightly earlier of the three watches is marked 'Waterproof' and 'Shock Proof' on the dial with 'Patent Shock Absorber' and with '3 Adjustments, dot, star, dot' on the barrel wheel the same as the other Helvetia shock protected watches.
It has an Edinburgh silver hallmark with the date letter for 1927 which is also the date of the serial number on the inner case back.
Though the other two watches have Swiss silver hallmarks with no date letter they both have serial numbers around 1500 later than the first watch which would also date them to 1927. The dials are marked 'Depollier' and the cases and movements are marked 'Depollier Watch Corp.' which wasn't formed until 1926. They have the same movement and patented crown fitting as the previous watch. The crown in the watch illustrated below may be the original and illustrates better how the bow would apply downward pressure on the crown to create a seal.
This example, one of the Depollier marked watches, was discovered by Stan Czubernat of LRF Antique Watches in 2017.
All versions of this watch earlier than these were manufactured in the US and were fitted with US movements. Below is an advert for the version of the Depollier waterproof watch produced before the Helvetia one. It dates from 1919 and was made by Waltham Watch Co, note the similarities in the case but the different (screw down) crown.
Though it appears the last version of the Depollier waterproof was not a huge success as none appear to have been made after 1927 it looks as if Helvetia decided to specialise in this type of watch. They produced watches through the late 1920s using this shock protection in a variety of cases often incorporating additional shock or dust/moisture protection such as ‘swing-ring’ cases, crystal guards and hunter or half hunter cases.
‘The Fenchurch Lever Watch’ is a good example of watches not being sold under Helvetia’s own name. This seems to be a brand from Australia that, as far as I can see, exclusively used Helvetia made watches but the name never appeard on them.
Helvetia carried on using FHF movements fitted with the Depollier/Brun shock protection through to about 1935, after they introduced their own movement with Helvetia shock protection in 1929, most notably in the first of their ‘Pilots’ watches. In fact, in 1949 Helvetia published the advert reproduced in part below celebrating this movement as the movement that made Helvetia famous and that ‘was already used in 1929 for the manufacturing of the first waterproof Helvetia watches’.
As we have seen this was the adapted FHF movement that was used in Helvetia's shock protected watches before the introduction from the mid-1920s, and was used in a small number of waterproof watches. Though I would argue that the '10 1/2" wrist watch movement which made Helvetia watches famous' was the movement that was introduced in 1929, the calibre 81.
Next, reference 3135, silver and chrome plated.
The Calibre 81 and Helvetia's Own Shock Protection - Patent No 143073
In 1929 Helvetia applied for a patent (No 143073) for their own shock protection system for the balance of their watch movements.
This comprised of a 3 pronged spring held in place over the end of the balance by a boss that had a notch cut in it to allow easy fitting and removal of the spring. The other end of the balance was held in place by a spring in the form of an elongated flexible blade that had one end screwed to the base plate of the movement. Because the balance was held between these two springs it was cushioned to a certain degree from shocks.
This system resulted in the distinctive star shaped Helvetia shock protection seen in almost all of their watches through to the 1950s when it was replaced by the Incabloc system. In their patent application Helvetia acknowledge that similar shock protection systems already existed and they seem to be focusing on the easy fitting of the spring via the notch as the unique feature of their system in order to gain the patent. I believe this may have been marketing inspired to allow them to continue using ‘patent shock absorber’ on their movements as they had when they used the earlier Depollier/Brun system. Helvetia were one of very few companies to fit virtually all their movements with shock protection in the 1930s and they marketed themselves as a specialist sports watch manufacturer.
To house their new shock protection Helvetia introduced a new 10.5 Ligne movement they had been developing; the Calibre 81. The first watches to utilise this movement were a new line of ‘Waterproof’ and ‘Shockproof’ sports watches.
I think these Helvetia watches actually have a good case to be the first 'Sports' watches, shock and water protected with luminous dials and hands.
The Rolex Oyster waterproof watch was a bit earlier but wasn't shock protected and the Wittnauer All-Proof was advertised as shock proof but I can't see any proper shock protection as the Helvetia watches had.
Helvetia’s waterproof watches turned out to be popular and were sought after by re-sellers the world over. G & M Lane sold them branded as Aero and Aeroplane in the UK, Huber in Germany as Nautica and Abercrombie & Fitch in the US as their Shipmate. (Watches branded with these names may be used in the pictures accompanying this page but they are all completely manufactured by Helvetia with just the name being changed).
The first Helvetia waterproof case was a three-piece case, made of silver, with gaskets where the front and rear of the case are joined to the mid case body to seal the watch against water and dirt/dust. The stem also had washers fitted. Early advertisements mention that the washers are made from leather.
These watches are also shown in adverts with the reference number 3135B but as the adverts also show a reference 3135, that from serial numbers appears to be slightly later, perhaps this reference was added retrospectively.
There seems to have been quite a bit of variety in these early watches. No two I have seen have been exactly the same, with different dials, luminous and non-luminous, and case markings. The one above (the earliest I have recorded) bears Swiss hallmarks wheres the one below manufactured a few months later seems to have been sold in the UK as it bears UK silver marks for 1929. Watches for the UK market didn't usually have the manufacturers name on them until later, in the 1930s.
Between 1930 and 1931 a variety of new case designs were introduced. These had more curved lugs were available as cheaper chrome plated versions as well as silver.
Below are some examples of the watches shown in the advert above.
Firstly an unknown reference. In silver, round, with a thick case designed to allow a tight seal with the washer in the clip on back.
Another unknown reference. In silver and chrome plated, this seems to be a version of the original 3135B from 1929 but with more pronounced angles to the case.
There also appears to have been a smaller waterproof watch, reference 3835, in a men's and ladies version, but I have not seen examples of these.
Watertight Crystal Fitting - Patent No 155825
Helvetia’s next advance was to design and patent (No 155825) in 1931, a special watertight method of mounting an unbreakable plastic crystal to the front of the watch case.
This consisted of cutting a groove in the case (5) and also a groove in the face of the acrylic (8) which when inserted into the case caused the outside edge of the acrylic to fit into the groove in the case until it came to the lip of the groove in the crystal where it would be stopped creating a tight seal.
After the granting of this patent Helvetia marked the outer or inner case back with "BREVET+155825".
New Tonneau Shaped Cases and Spring Mounted Movements - Patent 167231
Finally, in 1933, Helvetia came up with the ultimate in protection for their movements against being dropped and knocked, they spring mounted the whole movement in the case!
The patent (No 167231) for the spring mounted movement was granted in 1934 and demonstrates an ingenious way of mounting the movement. The case screw to hold the movement in place were introduced from the dial side, opposite to the usual method, they were mounted within a spring and the other end had a flat nut that could be pushed in to compress the spring slightly. This nut was then slid into a slot in the case which kept slight pressure on the spring and allowed a small amount of up and down movement to cushion the movement from shocks. The nut was slid into position via a small notch cut in the case and then the whole movement was rotated slightly to allow the nut to slide into the groove and lock the movement in place.
There were two of these screws, one either side of the movement, were the case screws would normally be. This type of movement can be easily spotted by the distinctive flat nut heads instead of screws holding the movement in place and the patent number engraved onto the movement.
To incorporate these innovations Helvetia introduced several new, two piece, tonneau shaped case in chrome plated brass and in the newly introduced to watchmaking material - stainless steel.
Firstly, in 1933, came the 3164 and 3164B. Both chrome plated with slightly different case designs.
These were marketed under the name ' Helvetia Junior' and Helvetia really pushed the water and shock proof qualities in their adverts. They successfully sold their watches to other watch manufacturers and retailers and most of the 'Junior' type watches are marked with other companies names such as Aeroplane or Aero and Abercrombie and Fitch.
First Reference 3164.
Then the Reference 3164B.
Below are some adverts from this time that illustrate how Helvetia sold the water and shock proof aspects of their watches.
Helvetia seem to have made quite a name for themselves with the Helvetia Junior. The following is an extract from an article about the Swiss Watch Fair in the April 1934 edition of Watch and Clock Maker:
The “Helvetia” makers differentiate between their “shockproof” and “unbreakable” models, where, perhaps, others confuse the two terms and consequently confuse the trade and their wearers. “Shock- proof” is decidedly a term to apply to a watch made to withstand the knocks and jars suffered in ordinary wear, while “unbreakable” should only be applied to movements which will not break when treated with about as much rough usage and deliberate punishment as a watch might be expected to stand. The firm hold important patents on each type. The Helvetia waterproof is a very sound job and has stood up against tests that have sent many another watch to a watery grave.
The steel cased reference 3171B followed on the heels of the others in 1934 while a version with the movement adapted to allow centre seconds was introduced in 1935. These steel watches were popular with the resellers that Helvetia supplied, most notably Huber, and were still being sold as late as 1942.
Also in about 1935 a new chrome plated version of Helvetia's pre-war sports watch case that was introduced with a flatter case and a narrow bezel around the crystal the reference 3168 (3178 in some sources). This was also sometimes advertised as the Helvetia 'Junior'.
Round Shaped Waterproof Watches
In about 1937 in addition to the tonneau shaped cases a round version of the water and shock protected watch with the sprung movement was introduced. Unfortunately I do not know the reference for this watch.
Non-Waterproof Shock Protected Watches
As well as this range of waterproof watches Helvetia also continued to supply shock protected watches in slightly different non-waterproof cases during the 1930s also using their Calibre 81 movements as in the waterproof designs. These watches are often described as Helvetia 'Unbreakable' watches. I believe the case reference for these watches is 2027.
Huber also extensively used these watches as their 'Secura'.
Helvetia Watches Sold Under Other Brand Names
As has been demonstrated already Helvetia sold their Water and Shock Protected Watches to a variety of retailers and they often added their own branding. Illustrated below is a selection.
G & M Lane Aero and Aeroplane Watches
G & M Lane were based in Ludgate Hill, London and specialised in selling watches for pilots branded as Aero or Aeroplane. They seem to have had an early relationship with Helvetia and sold a variety of their watches from the late 1920s to the early 1940s including Helvetia's larger pilots style watches (see my Pilots Watch page for more details).
Though these were, to all intents and purposes, Helvetia watches with G & M Lane branded dials added, G & M Lane seems to have claimed all the innovations as their own and really went to town with the advertising of them.
They were certainly experts at marketing hype and made some quite outlandish claims; 'being dropped every day for 169 days from an aeroplane' and 'surviving a crash in the Schnieder Trophy Race and being under water for a considerable time, “'Still ticking merrily’ says well known pilot”, for instance.
Huber Nautica and Secura Watches
Huber were a well known and long lived watch retailer in Germany before World War 2. They seem to have started selling Helvetia waterproof and shockproof watches relatively late in the 1930s and through into the 1940s. It looks as if they wanted a better quality product and all their versions of Helvetia watches have high quality finishes on their movements and are of stainless steel or gold.
Huber branded the non-waterproof shockproof models 'Secura' and the waterproof ones as 'Nautica. They also sold Helvetia pocket watches.
After the war Huber re-opened following the destruction of their shops and are still trading in Munich today.
Abercrombie & Fitch Shipmate Watches
Before becoming the clothing retailer as we know today Abercrombie and Fitch were a Sporting Goods store and one of the things they sold were watches. The Abercrombie and Fitch Shipmate watch was sold by them for many years but the first versions of the watch were made by Helvetia.
Conclusion
Helvetia were still making their clip on back, shockproof and waterproof watches as late as 1942, several years after they had introduced screw back designs including that used in their 'DH' watch for the German Army, but their days were numbered and before the end of the war some of Helvetia’s most interesting watches seem to have disappeared.
Helvetia Waterproof Watches 1929 - 1940
Helvetia centre seconds Aero branded watch circa 1935 above with thanks to Alex at www.blackbough.co.uk
Aero adverts above from Aviation Ancestry - www.aviationancestry.co.uk
Ladies Versions
There were also smaller ladies’ versions of these watches produced.
Helvetia Advertising Leaflet Circa 1931 - Ladies Watches
